Successful applicants for the 2022 Hanbok Design project contest — hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and organized by the Korea Craft and Design Foundation — were announced in July. The contest’s prize-winning works were exhibited in COEX from Aug. 25 to Aug. 28. The contest’s theme was “Hanbok in Daily Life: Modernization of Hanbok as a layered 
outfit.” Its goal was to design creative and practical hanbok or traditional Korean clothes, suitable for everyday life using layers of clothing including jeogori, durumagi, and a vest. 
 Kookmin University’s Ko Su-Kyung, Park Ji-Won, and Lee Yun-Hyeong received the grand prize, the best prize, and the participation prize, respectively. The Kookmin Review sat down with 
Ko Su-Kyung, whose work “Human Meeting with God, Manshin.” netted her the grand prize. The following are excerpts from the interview.

 Q1. How did you develop the idea from “Manshin?”
I first encountered manshin, a female shaman in the movie “MANSHIN: Ten Thousand Spirits.” While preparing for the contest, I searched for images related to Korea and saw a picture of manshin. It was a picture of a person staring at the camera on a chair wearing clothes when performing an exorcism. Her eyes were so solemn that I could feel the overwhelming atmosphere. It was different from the image of a shaman I had known. The shaman that I had recognized was frightening and had a sharp image that was far from that of an ordinary person, but the photograph did not feel that way at all. Therefore, I naturally became interested in manshin, and I was inspired by the life of Kim Geum-hwa in the movie. When I saw the manshin’s clothes, I thought they would be pretty if I arranged them differently. I expected interesting results if I selected various elements from the existing shamanist costume. I also wanted manshin to be remembered as a person who comforts the pain of the people and wishes for happiness, not as a frightening person.

 Q2. Can you explain what the pain is?
In situations like the Japanese colonial era, which is the pain of all Koreans, and the conflict between South Korea and North Korea, many people’s sacrifices exist when political conflict continues. During those periods, so many died and the dead must have a lot to say. They must have gathered and been bound by resentment. Still, as far as resentment is concerned, even if an individual tries, it will not be resolved. Therefore, I was deeply moved and comforted by the way Kim Geum-hwa, the movie’s protagonist, listened to the stories of such people and gave me heartfelt comfort.

 Q3. Can you explain the work?
I was inspired by the Shamanist costume and decided to deform it. Five cardinal colors are often used on the costume, so I put them as a point fabric for my work. Still the theme was the modernization of hanbok, so I used toned-down color to complete the design and give it a comfortable feeling. I also put a hood on the hanbok because manshin wears paper hats when performing an exorcism. I was inspired by that and proceeded with the hood design. The wrinkled jacket is designed with the motif of a traditional fan called Hap-Juk-Sun. This is also a tool used for exorcism. And the skirt’s decorative elements are motivated by flower shapes displayed on a manshin’s hat. I designed the pants using five colors of fabric overlapped atop of one another, so the traditional image and the modern sensibility are well mixed. To express modernization of hanbok as a layered outfit, I researched the meaning of the word “layered” and tried to express it by overlapping fabrics like bustier. I also used organza, a traditional see-thru fabric. I thought overlapping see-thru fabrics is also a process to make a layered outfit. 

 Q4. What difficulties did you encounter during the project?
I had to do it alone without the help of others. Since I'm still a student, there are many shortcomings, but when I tried to do everything by myself, there were many difficulties in the process. It wasn't easy to make clothes as I thought, and I couldn't find the design I wanted, so there were a lot of experiments and modifications. In addition, Hanbok has a solid image that people usually have. Therefore. I had to be careful because it can always be interpreted negatively or harm the culture. I always kept these points in my mind.I learned a lot from this difficult process. It was a big burden to do it alone without other people's help, but looking at the results, it seemed like I had a more enjoyable and fulfilling time, it was quite fun too.

 Q5. How did you decide to participate in the contest?
I am currently a student on a leave of absence. I wanted to participate in a lot of contests during this period. Professor Park Ju-Hee recommended that I participate. I expect others who were 
in school joined the team or were coached by a faculty member, but I personally participated. In fact, I participated in the Hanbok Design Contest last year and won the Encouragement Award. This gave me the confidence to participate in several other contests. I actively tried to participate in other contests to do everything I could.

 Q6. How long did it take to decide on the specifics of the final work?
It took me about a month and a half to two months. There was a time when I could not fully concentrate on this contest because I was working at the same time. It took about a month to create 
the work, and it took two to three weeks to design it. It took a lot of research to establish the concept, so it took a lot of time to figure out the data, as well as to shape my idea. The theme of 
this contest was “the modernization of hanbok,” so I had to devise an image with the topic in mind. Clothes usually do not come out without thinking, but they can only be made with a special concept for design. In my case, I was reminded of the kinds of fabric and beads I had wanted to use to decorate my clothes before the contest and used this as a concept. I also searched for various materials that fit the theme and created keywords. In summary, the concept of manshin and the use of five-way fabric are also the result of collecting the work I have always wanted to do when making clothes

 Q7. Tell me about apparel design. 
I research ideas everyday not just to participate in contests. For example, I write down descriptions for images that come up in my mind while watching a certain object and apply them to clothes. 
In this contest, the five-way fabric used was a fabric I hoped to use long before the project. The concept of manshin was an idea I wanted to progress from old times. I conducted a design based 
on the things I researched every day and mapped out clothes’ silhouettes and materials by motivating their idea’s visual images. By collaging and combining images by Adobe Photoshop, a new 
silhouette came up with a new design of a silhouette that had never been seen before. In this contest, I combined facets of a Shamanist costume, putting an image of a fan's fold on the shoulder and back and finding the best place to put it. During this process, I underwent continuous revision.

 Q8. Why did you choose to major in Fashion Design? What is your goal for the future?
I have liked watching clothes since I was young. I wore various cheap clothes and made dolls’ clothes which led me develop an interest in fashion design and, at the same time I dreamt of going into Fashion Design. Although there are tremendous assignments, I am satisfied while studying the subject since it suits me well. In class, I learned that designers should make popular clothes of great design. After the class, I thought about what makes a good design and about the existence of a good design. At the same time, I doubted I could make it. I also wanted to design a good design that everyone would acknowledge but it is quite difficult. I took a leave of absence to find my own identity since the identity of a brand is more important nowadays. I always think I want to show my color like a brand on my assignments. My ultimate goal is to make a brand that everyone likes and luxurious clothes, albeit comfortable, that can satisfy anyone. I also want to have a definite identity so that when people see my clothes, they can call to mind the clothes’ characteristics.

Kim Si-Hoo, Lee Yeon-Jae Reporter

sihoo1002@kookmin.ac.kr

yilee05481@gamil.com